The New Look

Review: The New Look (2024)

Score: 7/10

The New Look is a visually sumptuous and narratively ambitious period drama that reframes the story of 20th-century fashion not through glamour, but through the dark crucible of Nazi-occupied Paris. Its central, compelling thesis contrasts two icons: Christian Dior (Ben Mendelsohn), the quiet, sensitive artist waiting for his moment, and Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche), the established titan revealed as a ruthless opportunist and Nazi collaborator. The series scores highly for its bold perspective and stellar central performances, but its execution sometimes falters under the weight of its own scope.

What Works Brilliantly:

• The Central Dichotomy: The contrast between Dior and Chanel is the engine of the show. Ben Mendelsohn delivers a masterclass in restrained emotion as Dior, a man navigating moral survival and artistic duty amidst terror. Juliette Binoche is chillingly effective as Chanel, portraying her not as a monster, but as a tragically arrogant pragmatist who believes her legacy places her above consequence.
• Atmosphere & Production Design: The series is breathtaking to look at. It meticulously recreates the oppressive gloom and whispered tensions of Occupied Paris, making the eventual explosion of Dior's "New Look" in the final episodes feel like a genuine, cathartic burst of light and hope.
• A Moral Historical Lens: The show bravely and effectively uses fashion as a lens to examine collaboration, resistance, and survival. The scenes in the Dior atelier, where maintaining beauty is an act of quiet defiance, are particularly powerful.

Why It’s Not a Higher Score:

• Pacing and Narrative Sprawl: The series ambitiously tries to cover too much ground—the rise of Dior, the fall of Chanel, the plight of Dior's captured sister (a stellar Maisie Williams), and the broader French Resistance. This leads to a slow, sometimes meandering pace in the middle episodes, where the compelling core conflict gets diluted by subplots that lack the same dramatic heft.
• Emotional Distance: Despite the high stakes, the storytelling can feel oddly reserved. The horrors of the occupation are depicted, but the emotional impact is sometimes intellectualised rather than viscerally felt, creating a barrier to full immersion.

Verdict:

The New Look is a stylish, intelligent, and morally complex drama that succeeds more as a fascinating historical character study than as a consistently gripping narrative. It is essential viewing for those interested in fashion history or the nuanced realities of life under occupation, powered by two award-worthy lead performances. However, its uneven pacing and emotional coolness prevent it from reaching the dramatic heights of peers like The Crown.

Watch if: You are fascinated by fashion history, WWII dramas focused on moral ambiguity, and character studies led by phenomenal actors. Skip if: You seek fast-paced plot progression, a traditionally uplifting wartime story, or a straightforward biopic.